Waterproofed – adventures in rubber paint (Beach house #67)

February 28th, 2018

I was so confused for so long when people would talk about a “waterproof membrane.” I thought it was some kind of plastic sheeting or something until I realized it was painted on. How cool is that? It’s like this rubber/plastic paint. It goes on like normal with brush and roller, but it’s thick as peanut butter.

Every brand has their own color. I went with Lowe’s.


It’s yellow. Like a raincoat. I like it.

I also bought fiberglass mesh tape – which, for extra confusion, is also called waterproofing membrane.

 That got smooshed with nice sticky layers of paint on both sides and carefully pushed into all the corners and edges, and even along where the tub/shower curb meet the floor, and especially in all the corners of the shampoo niches.

Then two layers of the rubber paint membrane, one applied horizontally and one vertically, with plenty of time to cure in between coats, and voila!


A rubber ducky shower.

I thought it looked kind of thin until later when I had to try to change part of it and it was really hard to cut with a boxcutter. It was like a shell of hard plastic. I was a bit skeptical before but I’m a believer now.


Showers up! (Beach house #66)

February 21st, 2018

I finished the shower and bath structures!

The Durock was pretty easy. Anything I couldn’t cut with a boxcutter came out easily with a sawzall.


You can’t puncture the PVC liner with screws, so you can’t use Durock on the shower curb. You have to build it out of metal lathe and mortar instead. I beat it into shape first between a few studs first so that the bends would be crisp – and beat a couple of my fingertips too.

Blood, sweat, and tears, I’m telling you. The rehabber’s trifecta.

I also got the durock on the floors mortared down with thinset and screwed every 8-10 inches. So those will be ready to tile pretty soon.

The hardest part was the shower pan. I knew it would be – I’ve probably watched just about all the Youtube tutorials.

First I had to get a level all the way around, with a minimum thickness of 2-3 inches – and then adjust the drain to the exact height that would give the pan the right amount of slope. Sounds easy, but it has to be just perfect.


Oh yeah, I got my first layer of mortar on the curb too. It came out pretty nice and square. It takes a different kind of mortar than the thinset or the pan mortar.

My shower pan came out rougher than the ones I saw on Youtube, or maybe that’s a function of seeing mine up close and touching it vs. seeing it on a video the size of a cell phone. The slope is good though, and that’s what’s important.


It is funny how it looks so flat in this photo. In real life there is a decided slope to it, all nice and neat down towards the drain,especially on the shortest sides. Up close it certainly doesn’t look as beautiful or smooth as the ones in the tutorials. I’m not too worried though. It’ll all get smoothed over with thinset. And in any case, as long as water runs downhill it can’t be too bad, right?

The drain is up from the surface by about 1/16″ less than the thickness of the tile I’m going to use for the floor. The idea being, of course, that it rests lower than the tiles so the water can flow into it.

I waited overnight for the pan to harden enough to walk on, then spent today covering all the seams with fiberglass mesh – much like drywall mesh tape but a different formulation to withstand concrete’s alkalinity – with thinset. That was actually pretty enjoyable once I got the hang of it.


I decided to cut a shower niche into the bathtub wall as well.


Well technically, I decided to go back and excavate the shower niche that I’d framed out, that Carlos had Durocked over (he did the bathtub walls). It was tempting to leave it hidden – easier, faster, and cheaper to tile! – but personally, I hate it when there’s nowhere to put all the shampoo bottles in bathtubs. I’ve never really understood why there are usually niches in showers but not in baths.

Tomorrow the newly thinsetted seams, edges, corners, etc. will be dry enough for me to cover with a waterproof fiberglass fabric and waterproofing “liquid membrane” (goopy, paintable silicone-ish stuff). A few days after that, the shower pan should be dry enough for me to waterproof it and everything else, too, and then I can start actual tiling!

Rocking on (Beach house #65)

February 18th, 2018

I got to play with Durock cement board a bit today. It was pretty rewarding actually – not difficult, I didn’t make any bad cuts, and everything fit into place nice and neat. Not bad for a first time ever.


By the end of the week (my new deadline for tile prep), I need to have those boards cemented down with Thinset and screwed down with the special cement screws I bought.

I even got to start rocking in the shower, the very last part that needs to be done!


I wasted some time re-framing the shower niche after I realized that if I raised the top by just a couple inches, taking into account the thickness of the cement board and the tiles themselves and the cool marble threshold I want to use as a lip/ledge on the bottom, I should be able to avoid cutting any awkward rectangles out of the surrounding 12×12 tiles. (At least, I hope I measured that right.) It looks really tall in the photo but it’ll be just a standard 12×24 when finished.

My plan is to have the cement boards up and taped tomorrow, and the shower pan poured by Friday or Saturday. If I do then I’m on schedule to start tiling next week, and painting the week after that!

New hardwoods (Beach House #64)

February 16th, 2018

I love putting down new finish flooring. It’s not difficult (usually) and it makes a big difference, fast.

Of course in this house there had to be problems here making it suck way worse than it ever should, but even so this was a pretty rewarding phase of the project once I figured out how to tackle the challenges.

First of all, it wasn’t until I set a sheet of drywall across the floor lengthwise that I realized how out-of-true the floor was. It had a very visible hump down the middle – about 3/4″ on one side, and about 3/8″ down from the crown on the other. Hard to see in pictures but once a long straight-edge was put across it, super obvious. Of course this house couldn’t just have level subfloors. That is too much to ask. 


You can’t see it here because those skinny boards are misleadingly bendy. 

Not an insurmountable problem though – I looked around and did some research and figured out that I had options. I could either 1) tear out the subfloor, level the joists underneath, shim, etc and reinstall subfloor again or 2) do as floorers generally do and use strips of roofing felt and shingles to shim up any gaps. (I couldn’t use self-levelling concrete because I was planning on nailing the floor.)

Can you guess which option I chose?


I even already had all the stuff on hand. And at first, it wasn’t too bad.


But it got worse, and about a third of the way across the room the floor suddenly started sloping towards the window, as well. And not in a nice, even slope either. One corner dipped, and there were a couple random humps thrown in for good measure.

I lost my faith in asphalt strips and decided to abandon the faithless subfloor altogether. I built “sleepers” into the floor that I could nail into instead of into the subfloor. This is a technique traditionally found when installing hardwoods onto concrete, but it worked here perfectly.

Each of these sleepers had to be painstakingly, individually measured, scribed, cut and planed to fit the contours of the floor every 8-10 inches while remaining flat and level in every direction.


Boy, was the floor messed up…about 1.5″ in the worst parts!

So that took me an entire 10 hour workday and now I have holes in the knees of both my work jeans, and I hate my jigsaw with a bitter passion, and I will probably have wood dust in my lungs until I am 67. (I have masks. Somewhere. I just can’t find them.) But the sleepers are cemented down AND screwed in with 2.5″ screws, and they provided a delightfully sturdy base for me to lay the rest of the oak boards on.


Which I did using both glue AND nails, just in case. I’d rather have overkill than midnight anxiety attacks about someone falling through the floor. Or whatever.


I had to dip into a case of the finished boards at the very end there, but the color difference doesn’t matter since we’re going to refinish all the floors anyway. In fact I kind of wish I’d used them from the start – they seemed a higher quality and gave me hardly any splinters worth cussing at. As opposed to the other 3/4 of the boards in the room.


I’ll try and remember to stick a whole-room glamour shot in here as soon as I get all the tools tidied up. One more project checked off the list!

Real walls! (Beach house #63)

February 14th, 2018

The drywall is pretty much done, except for the back bathroom (which is waiting for one final electrician visit to move a junction box). The house is starting to look like a house, and it’s soooooo refreshing. I’m starting to feel like there will be an end to this some day.

Living room:



Entry to the bedrooms:


(Those stilts are so cool! I want some of those!)

If you remember, here are the plans:

bathrooms current


Bedroom 1:


(This is where I discovered that I somehow, stupidly, made all the closet headers an inch too low and so now I have to cut down all the closet doors to fit – UGH)

Bedroom 2:


TV room (old kitchen):


Next task: that floor right up there in the old kitchen.

It’s starting to look like a house! (BH #62)

February 5th, 2018

Josh got me drywallers for Christmas. :) I am soooo ready for this project to be over – such a huge feeling of relief washed over me when we decided that I wouldn’t have to do the drywall myself. This’ll save me at least a month of labor, I imagine, and I probably wouldn’t do it as well as the guys will. I can’t believe how fast they are – look what they’ve done in just one day!

The living room, looking out towards the water:




The old kitchen, now the TV room:



Come Monday, the plumber promises we’ll have a working faucet hooked up in the basement so that the drywall guys can do their first mudding. I can’t wait! Once all the mudding is done I can put up the doors and we’ll have actual rooms.

After that there remains:

  • bathroom tiling
  • the TV room floor
  • kitchen cabinets
  • closet doors and shelves
  • painting
  • trim, windows and baseboards and attic access
  • bathroom fixtures, toilets, towel bars, etc.
  • the fence in front, to prevent parking on the septic field
  • the driveway
  • the back porch laundry room and wooden door refinishing
  • refinishing the floors
  • hooking up some sort of filtration system to the well (we have a drinking filtration system for the kitchen sink already).
  • put up blinds
  • and undoubtedly some things I have forgotten.

And then of course we still have to actually get renters… Ugh! Every time I think the list is getting shorter, I realize how long it still is! :( Someone tell me it will be over soon!

Warm winter coat (BH #61)

February 3rd, 2018

Sorry for the hiatus in posts! I just haven’t been doing anything interesting in the house. Turns out it takes a long time to get all the details of insulation done – did you know you have to caulk between every top plate and bottom plate? Every double stud? Around every window? Plug every single hole in every single stud, not just the base plates and top plates? And then because almost none of the stud bays was the correct spacing, I had to go around and tape up every batt that I’d had to cut down to size, and it took WAY TOO LONG.

But this is what we’re left with:


Yay! Airtight and insulation in all the walls!

Then I had to clamber up into the attic and air seal up there as well. Around every light fixture, every smoke detector, every top plate, every drywall seam. Including the downstairs, I used approximately 25 cans of expanding foam. I had to cap each recessed light fixture with these fireproof cans, and air seal them too so that the insulation couldn’t touch them –  and then tape on some flags so that they could be found after being covered in 16″ of fluffy paper stuff. Then nail up lots of sticks that I’d marked with tape at 16″, too, so that I’d have a good depth reference for the cellulose.

Finally, every rafter bay had to be stapled with styrofoam baffles so that the insulation wouldn’t plug the soffits from venting, and that meant lying on my side balanced across ceiling joists trying desperately not to fall onto the drywall and ruin my new ceilings, while wrestling an air compressor and staple gun. That part was the worst.

I told Josh it was just like doing the balancey, core-clenching, breath-holding poses of my advanced yoga class, except on top of a jungle gym.


The vent from the porch roof had to be baffled up too – let the air flow! And then we could blow in the cellulose.

That part was actually pretty fun. It took longer than I’d thought it would – it was more like snowing than blasting. Took about 45 bags to do a bit less than 600 square feet and get R-49. This was my view all day:


I tried to take a picture of the snowing for you, but…

Yes, I wore a very good filter mask and some ski goggles.

Afterwards, ta-da!


That trench along the far side is the little plywooded catwalk I left for access to wires, etc.


It was kind of fun. I’m almost excited to do it to our own house, which also has almost no insulation in the attic (about 3″ of fiberglass).

And now I can turn on the thermostat and leave on the heat!

Repairs set in stone (BH #60)

January 5th, 2018

I did a bit more repair work outside while I could and patched up a couple more odds and ends.

I repaired the worst of the crack in the stones against the front porch, which involved digging out a lot of dirt and resetting a lot more loose stones than I’d thought.


And then I realized that now that the really bad parts are fixed, the middle (which looked nonexistent before!) now looks … well, really bad.



Sigh. That might have to wait til Spring.

Oh, I also finally got the old hole on the front wall – where the oil pipe deposit used to poke out – stuffed full of concrete. I’ll take an angle grinder to it soon and even it out a bit before I paint it:


And that white bar across the steps is holding in a few substantial patches, where BIG chunks of the stair nose had been knocked off in a few places. (But of course I didn’t take a before photo so you’ll just have to believe me.) I had to drill in a dozen or so concrete screws before I poured in the concrete patch material, and since I didn’t take off the form before I left I’m fairly anxious about the final result.

Wish I’d gotten the steps and deck wall painted before the weather turned from 65 to 12…

Concrete (BH #59)

January 3rd, 2018

On a day that wasn’t 12 degrees (in fact it was a miraculous 65! Thanks, global warming!) I finally got all the concrete poured on the outside. Our busted up old cracked disintegrating half-sidewalk (it fell 13 feet short of the driveway and 10 feet short of the mailbox) was jackhammered away before I even arrived.



I used JA & Sons Landscaping and I am glad I did. These guys worked late into the night – it was dark before they left – and they bent over backwards to make sure that I could see the final product before I left for vacation, squeezing me into their schedule two days ahead of time. They were careful to ok all the final formwork with me in every detail and pointed out several problems – and clever solutions! – that I had missed. They did a great job.




They poured the next day while I was staining the deck and the transformation was incredible.


Ignore that very last ugly patch of concrete where it meets the driveway. That’s going to be covered deep in gravel and will never show. Seriously though, check out the difference:



They were careful (with no prompting) to pour the new basement door area about an inch lower than the basement door threshold. Before it had been the opposite and so, obviously, we used to have water problems every time it rained.

And that’s not all….


I had them finish up the basement as well. Where previously there was nothing but sand, now there is floor:



Goodbye, old rotten oil tank! (Thanks, Craigslist.)

And thanks, JA & Sons!

Winter (BH #58)

January 1st, 2018

Winter is here, and we finished the preparations just in time. This is a shot of approximately 30% of the insulation I had to buy for this project:


I’ve been working feverishly at the insulation in the hopes of getting it finished before leaving on vacation. I got close, but not as close as I’d hoped, since every single bay, electrical hole, junction box, etc had to first be sealed and insulated with expanding poly foam which took a couple more days than I’d figured. At the last minute I begged a couple close friends to come over and help and we all slaved away for a few hours. (These are great people. I will stuff them with delicious woodfired pizza and will even attempt to like beer for them).

We didn’t get it quite finished, but I only had a few more hours of work to do the next (last) morning:


And check this out:


Insulation, where previously was only a gaping empty hole. (I’m pretty sure this is probably the only insulation in the ceilings of this half of the house. But since that half is not accessible from the attic, it’ll have to stay that way.)

While that was happening, this was happening too:


Can’t have insulated walls and turn on the heat when the ceiling is gaping open in three different rooms!! I know my limits, and there was no way I could do ceiling drywall by myself. It’s definitely a two-person job, but Josh has better things to do (like working to finance this project) so I made a judgement call and asked my trusty Carlos to do the drywall for me.


Oh, it’s just beautiful. (That square hole is attic access which I did patch in later).


Walls insulated, ceiling closed up – I turned the heat on to a sweltering 40*F. It was lovely. I could take off the first two of my several outer jackets and work with a modicum of mobility again. My fingers didn’t even go numb all day.

Look at this baby. So shiny. So warm.


Carlos and the guys can’t drywall the walls until the insulation has been finished and inspected*. That can’t happen until I caulk the outsides of all the carpentry joins, double studs, etc., and then staple and tape the insulation batts.

In the mean time at least I can turn the heat on in there now, because this was what the road looked like as I drove away:


And it only got worse – it’s 12 degrees right now! That’s just nuts!

*Insulation inspection is its own boondoggle. I’m stuck at that point since I want to get the energy company rebates for insulation (up to 75% off the total cost including labor!) but I can’t apply for those until I do a blower test (for a direct before/after comparison). But I can’t do a blower test until I have my walls all drywalled. But I can’t get my walls drywalled until I have my insulation inspection done. But I can’t get my insulation inspection passed until my attic and basement are already insulated. So it goes round and round… and figuring that out is my next big task. It may be that I just can’t get the rebates – which is BS since there was NO attic or basement insulation before, and the wall insulation was moldy, wet, and disgusting! Either way, once that inspection is done we can get some actual walls in here and it’ll feel like we’re in the home stretch.